During the holidays we explored a portion of the vast and fascinating NOA region (Northwest Argentina). We marveled at breathtaking landscapes such as multicolored mountains, vast high-altitude salt lakes, lush subtropical mountain forests called “yungas” and sundrenched valleys covered with vineyards. The region is so rich and diverse that one trip was simply not enough our twelve days in Tucumán, Salta, and Jujuy were just a glimpse, and I’m already thinking about going back, there is so much to see and do. But there was a particular experience that was one of the highlights of our trip, a memory that somehow sums up the NOA’s essence, getting to meet the region’s most enduring symbol: the llama.

Llamas are far more than photogenic high-altitude residents. Their story is woven into the history of the Andean culture, dating back thousands of years to the Incas and the cultures that preceded them. They were an essential part of the cultural and economic system, as pack animals to carry goods across vast and challenging territories, as a source of soft, warm wool for clothing, as high-protein meat for sustenance, and even using their dry dung as a source of fuel. The locals treat them with utmost respect for their existence is considered a gift from the Pachamama, the Earth Mother.

Our first close encounter with the llamas was at sunset as soon as we arrived at the quaint hotel we had chosen for our stay in Tilcara. It had its own corral with llamas that we were encouraged to visit and feed. Although we had seen llamas before, but we had never been able to interact with them so closely and we were instantly fascinated by their huge round eyes that look straight at you. From that day on, we took up the habit of visiting the llamas after breakfast or as soon as we got back from our daily adventures. When other travelers recommended “Caravana de Llamas” as a wonderful and enriching experience, we thought we should consider it. The next morning when we found their flyer on our breakfast table we took it as a sign.

Caravana de llamas: an interpretation center

The interpretation center is located just outside Tilcara, an easy walk from downtown. Once inside the ranch, we were greeted by Santos, Mel and the rest of the team, a couple of dogs and of course, the curious llamas. We were soon invited to take a seat around an open area next to the llama’s corral where Santos gave us a brief and passionate class about the llamas. For starters, a llama is a mammal original from South America, part of the camelid family, related to the camel from the old continent, but with no hump. He explained that the llamas are really guanacos (which are still wild) that have been domesticated for thousands of years. Llamas can’t survive in the wild unlike their guanaco relatives, they need humans to take care of them.

Using a poster, Santos explained that these fluffy long necked animals are all part of the same family: llamas are domesticated guanacos, bred for strength, while alpacas are domesticated vicuñas, bred for their soft fiber. They are the result of thousands of years of selective breeding by the Andean people. We could say that they were the world’s first, and most patient, geneticists.

The most interesting part of his talk was on how to connect with your llama. Santos explained that we need to know their social rules to make friends with them. He told us that to get acquainted llamas get close to each other and smell one another. This means we have to do the same: gently approach your llama give it a sniff and then let it sniff you: you are now friends. Another important rule is not to touch the llama’s face because it’s very sensitive and they don’t like it, but you can place your head next to theirs in sign of friendship and take a “selfie”. Each of us was assigned our own llama that would be our companion for the afternoon. The one I got was Eva and we instantly hit it off, after a few sniffs, of course. I was brushing her fluffy coat in no time and soon we were taking “selfies” together.

After we all got acquainted with our llama, it was time for our walk. Santos explained that we should hold the leash and keep our llamas behind us so that we guide them with our shoulders. The exit from the corral was a bit messy until we got organized and managed to form a sort of line to start off. Mel told us that we should say: “Vam, vam, vam…” in a sort of hum to keep the llamas walking.

We were quite a large group walking along the now dry and rocky river basin, and Santos told us to watch our step and not to worry about our llama because they are perfectly adapted to this terrain, with their unique, two-toed foot with a soft, leathery pad and toenails. In fact, while some of us struggled with a few slippery rocks the adult llamas walked along gracefully, and the youngsters jumped around playfully. During our walk we learnt that their dried dung (taqo) has been used for centuries as a source of fuel. We also learnt that llamas do spit but mainly as a way of communicating with their peers when there is something they don’t like. I was lucky enough to see this in action when my llama got mad at one of the youngsters that was insistently jumping onto her back. She prepared her spit and aimed directly at the youngster while carefully avoiding me. That was a relief!

When we got back to the ranch, we were given corn to feed them as a treat. They explained that they use positive stimulation to get the llamas used to these walks which are essential for their physical and mental exercise. We were sad to say goodbye to our new friends but were then invited to sit down again.

This time, Mel explained the entire process for obtaining the llama’s wool. Each llama can be sheared once every two years, a task that must be done with great care. Once sheared, the yarn is treated through a traditional process done by local knitters. The yarn from each llama is separated and named. Each knitted item is identified with the name of the llama it came from. This means you can buy a scarf made from “your” llama’s wool as a memento. We also learnt that the llamas have their own Instagram followers! Yes, each of them has a name and a particular personality and you can follow their daily activities, high-altitude adventures and even their love life.

Caravana de llamas isn’t a place simply to see llamas; it is a place designed to understand them. It is a place built and managed with love for the llamas, aiming to raise awareness on their vital role in the history, ecology, and the spiritual life of the Andean cultures.